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Travelling Exhibition-Old Ocean in the Himalayas
Adopting a framework of decolonization to address an extractive regime that considers mountains and rivers as lifeless entities for humans to assert their dominance, this exhibition draws on Naga Indigenous lifeworlds of salt, land, and soil. The exhibition invites us to dwell on the human spirit of endurance, and showcases how deep histories of land, geology, and time are intertwined through everyday accounts of salt, stones, and spirits.
The essence of existence for Indigenous communities lies in interdependence. Their assertion of being Indigenous is not a claim of superiority over the earth and its resources but a commitment to care and maintaining ties with the past and the present. These delicate connections are explored by layering the geological history with the cultural relations in the Naga homeland.
Parallel Textures
This piece highlights the similarity in texture between tree barks and weathered rocks. The tree barks are of two sacred trees in Naga Indigenous History, Himalayan pear (Pyrus pashia) and banyan tree (Ficus benghalensis). Nagas consider the banyan tree in Makhel Village as their point of origin and it grows over sandstone terrain, with its trunk exhibiting similarity to the rocks in its area. The Himalayan pear marks the location at which Naga ancestors departed from Makhel Village to their present-day locations. It grows over shale terrain and its bark bears similarity to the rocks in its area.
The Indian Peninsula during the Eocene
This map is an artistic representation of the Indian peninsula during the Eocene Epoch (56 to 33.9 million years ago), during which the northeastern part of India was under the ancient Tethys Ocean. The Himalayas formed as a result of the collision between the Indian plate and Eurasian Plate.
Eocene
The entirety of the Himalayas was under the Tethys.Ocean throughout the Eocene Epoch (56 to 33.9 million years ago). Regarding the Eastern Himalayas, the sediments buried under the sea during this epoch compacted and formed the present-day shales and sandstones, which still carry remnants of the ancient water in the form of salt springs. Molluscs such as Pitar (Calpitaria) carteri, Turritella sp., Lyria samanaensis Cox and Turbinella premekranica Vredenburg thrived during this epoch.
Oligocene
By the Oligocene Epoch (33.9 to 23 million years ago) the Indian Plate collided with the Eurasian Plate, leading to the formation of the Himalayas. In the Eastern Himalayas, the continued deposition of sediments resulted in the formation of the Barail group of rocks, which can be presently seen as thick sandstone beds along the national highway running across Nagaland and Manipur.
Miocene
Land connections between India and Eurasia were completely established by the Miocene Epoch (23.03 to 5.333 million years ago). With this, many plant species migrated from Southeast Asia and other neighbouring countries to India through the northeastern corridor. Some of these include bamboo (Bambusa tulda), Indian English gurjuntree (Dipterocarpus tuberculatus), and Indian mahogany (Chukrasia tabularis). These trees not only provide firewood and timber but some also find use in food. For example, bamboo shoots are extensively consumed and the leaves of gurjuntree also serve as plates when needed.
Anthropocene
The rocks in Nagaland are geologically very young and relatively weaker in terms of mechanical properties. With climate change and uncontrolled urbanization, the landscape is undergoing massive changes, especially in terms of vegetation and the hydrological cycle. Consequently, the effects or disasters such as landslides and earthquakes are becoming increasingly stronger. Particularly in shale terrain, the sinking of houses is common. Moreover, important sites such as salt springs are facing higher risk of burial under landslides.
Shale and Sandstone Sequence
The Okrokhe primarily comprises shales, siltstones, and some sandstones. The rocks were formed in the Eocene geological epoch (55.8 - 33.9 million years) when the old ocean called Tethys existed. The brine in the Okrokhe is a remnant of the old ocean in the Himalayas.
Although shale itself is generally not a good aquifer, fragmented shales and sandstone store a good amount of groundwater, which is the case in this area. Even during the dry, windy season, the springs provide sufficient salt water.
Naga ancestors believed that a single person could not approach the springs because of the strong spiritual emanation. Even when accompanied by a companion, they had to announce their arrival beforehand at Tokhu. The entire area was overshadowed by thick foliage, with little sunlight reaching the ground.
As the salt springs are located in a ravine, the overshadowing by foliage ensured that the light and temperature conditions were very low, even during mid-day. The geological composition of the area - the shale terrain continuously wetted by salt water made the surface soil texture extremely dark -creating an atmosphere of otherworldly landscape.
Although shale itself is generally not a good aquifer, fragmented shales and sandstone store a good amount of groundwater, which is the case in this area. Even during the dry, windy season, the springs provide sufficient salt water.
Naga ancestors believed that a single person could not approach the springs because of the strong spiritual emanation. Even when accompanied by a companion, they had to announce their arrival beforehand at Tokhu. The entire area was overshadowed by thick foliage, with little sunlight reaching the ground.
As the salt springs are located in a ravine, the overshadowing by foliage ensured that the light and temperature conditions were very low, even during mid-day. The geological composition of the area - the shale terrain continuously wetted by salt water made the surface soil texture extremely dark -creating an atmosphere of otherworldly landscape.
Hudzumutu
A sandstone slab stands tall above the roadside on a downhill path leading to the salt springs. The stone is called Hudzümutu because it resembles a rooster’s comb. The people of Makhel Village revered the stone for its power. When villagers traveled along this path, upon reaching this landmark, they exclaimed “Hudzümutu” and waited for a response. If they received a reply with the same word, they would return to the village as it indicated danger or the presence of enemies ahead. If there was no response, they proceeded with the journey. This custom of addressing the stone is still practiced today, and the stone stands out, evoking curiosity in any passerby.
Lithic Culture
The salt springs hold a special place for the people in Makhel. Despite the negligible commercial potential and the labour involved, the villagers choose to keep the tradition of consuming and making salt alive.
Young people volunteer to collect salt water for the elderly members of the village who cannot make trips to the salt springs. There is a saying that salt water gets heavier the longer one pauses to take a break. Hence, they attempt to return home with fewer stops. The mountain path along the salt springs are lined with wild gooseberry trees (Phyllanthus emblica) and the young people enjoy the fruits while carrying the salt water.
Young people volunteer to collect salt water for the elderly members of the village who cannot make trips to the salt springs. There is a saying that salt water gets heavier the longer one pauses to take a break. Hence, they attempt to return home with fewer stops. The mountain path along the salt springs are lined with wild gooseberry trees (Phyllanthus emblica) and the young people enjoy the fruits while carrying the salt water.
Tokhu
A few meters before reaching the salt springs, a set of sandstone blocks is neatly stacked like a retaining wall and a place of refuge. This place is called Tokhu. When villagers arrive here, they must announce they are heading to the salt springs. The announcement is a request to the spirits of the salt springs for safe passage. It is said that a silent arrival without declaration offends the spirits, and one is inflicted with illness, suffering, and other misfortunes upon returning from the springs.
Disappearing and Buried Salt Springs
Today, there is rampant deforestation, trees and foliage have disappeared, and landslides are routine due to the torrential monsoons in this part of the Eastern Himalayas. people believe that the salt springs of Makhel have lost their spiritual aura, and are fast disappearing.
The landslides have exposed the soil, causing the structures of the ravine to collapse. The original vegetation is also disappearing. The salt springs receive harsh sunlight and experience intense evaporation, which exacerbates the processes of erosion. Many salt springs are buried under landslides, and the villagers of Makhel have recovered only a few salt springs.
The landslides have exposed the soil, causing the structures of the ravine to collapse. The original vegetation is also disappearing. The salt springs receive harsh sunlight and experience intense evaporation, which exacerbates the processes of erosion. Many salt springs are buried under landslides, and the villagers of Makhel have recovered only a few salt springs.
Buried Salt Spring
Disappearing Salt Spring
Medicinal Salt Spring
Water from each spring is known to have a unique smell and taste and different health benefits. Although not all of them are used for consumption, they still provide benefits regarding external applications. For example, water from one of the springs improves skin health and eyesight.
Medicinal Salt Spring
Okrokhe
The area around the salt springs is called Okrokhe. It means a place where numerous brine springs occur. Initially, the area featured more than thirty salt springs, but at present, there are around eight salt springs.
The main salt spring is called Kroe. The brine is used for cooking. It is also believed that the water from this spring is good for ailments like tonsillitis, and is used for cooking vegetables. Greens boiled with this water are considered exceptionally tasty, with no trace of sourness or bitterness.
The main salt spring is called Kroe. The brine is used for cooking. It is also believed that the water from this spring is good for ailments like tonsillitis, and is used for cooking vegetables. Greens boiled with this water are considered exceptionally tasty, with no trace of sourness or bitterness.
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